Sunday, May 25, 2008

Day 5 -- Mitzpe Ramon to Kibbutz Ketura

Today was a great day. We travelled 62 miles through the Negev. It was hot; sometimes 108%. Sunscreen, food, water and powerade were essential. I felt pretty good for the ride too. Thank God for Shabbat! The scenery was beautiful and challenging, not only because of the heat, but also because the hills. We had two difficult uphills -- one was very steep, but I made it and strongly at that. When I got to the top I felt like I could do anything! The downhills weren't easy either. One had to be very much in control so as to not fall. Traffic wasn't easy either. Then there were the straight aways too...mile after mile in the desert heat.

For all of you who smugly said: "300 miles from Jerusalem to Eilat. Shouldn't be too hard it's all down hill!" I have some words for you when I get home!

Kibbutz Ketura warmly greeted us. I'm now all showered and ready to hit the pool and walk around learning more about the incredible work they do here at the Arava Institute and other agricultural innovations.

Time to go! More tomorrow when we finish! I can't believe I'm really doing this and am looking forward to arriving in Eilat and jumping into the Red Sea!

Shabbat Continued: The Arava Institute

I wanted to write a separate post about what for me was probably the highlight of Shabbat and maybe even the entire trip. Shabbat afternoon about 30 students and alumni of the Arava Institute gathered for a panel discussion about who they are, why they came, what they are doing now, what they hope to do in the future and how they believe and hope that this experience will affect the region, not only environmentally, but culturally and politically.

First a confession, I have for many years considered myself a hopeful optimist when it came to Israel and the Palestinians and Arabs of the region. Oslo really excited me and gave me a sense that maybe this conflict can be resolved. Unfortunately, the second Intifada destroyed that hope and turned me to the right, a hard right. How could one trust a culture in which death is celebrated and suicide bombers praised? If only the Palestinians would realize that accepting Israel, which for me meant at the very least that they would stop sending rockets into our citites (like Sderot) and cease sending their children to their deaths only to terrorize us. Furthermore, in my thinking, Israel has shown itself every time a serious partner has shown itself to negotiate and trade land for peace. The problem, it seemed to me was with them.

Today I find myself questioning a lot of these presumptions. That does not mean that I have suddenly turned left. No, but meeting and speaking with these remarkable young people from Israel, Jordan and Palestine (yes that was me who just wrote that, though intending the West Bank and Gaza) has challenged me. The Arabs of the Arava Institute are heros. They are risking a lot to be here. They often get blacklisted and can't find work. They have family and extended family that do not understand and are fearful. And they risk losing their friends, but they come nonetheless to learn, to share and most importantly to listen. Through listening to the other, they also learn to acknowledge the other. They have become friends with each other. They have danced at their weddings. Met each other's parents. They have cried together and they have aregued and screamed at each other. But because at the end of the day they live together at the Arava, they have to learn to adjust and cope. I find them to be very inspiring.

Maybe, just maybe, this is the way? I don't know. But I'm thinking about it. I'm asking new questions. I'm allowing myself to be challenged. And it feels right. That's an incredible feeling.

Amman.Philadelphia --Stuart Kurtz

We left Mitze Ramon and went down a very very steep downhill with Rabbi Steve on my side. After the descent, my legs felt strong after a day of rest so I joined the lead group and rode with Ehab from Amman Jordon. He is a student at the Arava Institute who studied american literature at Philadelphia University in Amman. I learned also that Amman used to be called Philadelphia. Ehab was a former playmaker for the Jordanian national basketball team and a teacher. His current project involves taking 16 year old children from Jordan to Israel and from Israel to Jordon to study coral reefs. We talked about how poorly the US is viewed in Jordon. People can not understand why we elected Bush again and I told him I agreed with him. His relatives in the states are also experiences prejudice which has not helped our countries image abroad. He was having trouble with the ride and I stayed with him until the lunch stop and upon arrival he told me that he couldn't have made it without me. Peanut butter and jelly awaited us for lunch and I quickly ate two sandwiches. He was without bike shorts so I gave him an extra pair to complete the ride. We road together for the majority of the afternoon. For the day we totaled 65 miles and finally arrived at the campus of the Arava Institute. The temperature upon arrival was 108 and was hovering around a 100 for most of the day..

Saturday, May 24, 2008

Friday: Masabe Sade to Mitzpe Ramon to Shabbat

For me, this day was the most difficult thus far. The milage wasn't so bad, about 50 miles; it was that this was the third day; it was the visit to Sderot; and it was the heat...at times over 100%. Add to that the pain I was feeling every time I sat on my saddle and the climb to Mitzpe Ramon. And that hill! Many times on this day I thought to myself...oy vey iz mir...why did I want to do this again?


Then there was the following:

Sderot was incredible. As we rode in there were children lining the road to greet us. One of the riders, also named Steve, went to the fence to talk to them. They wanted to know who we were, where we were from and what we were doing. He told them that we were riding from Jerusalem to Eilat and that many of us were from the United States. One student, in 3rd or 4th grade wondered if we had rode our bikes to Jerusalem from the United States? After he explained that we had shipped our bikes here the child asked: "Don't you know about the rockets?" Steve replied: "We came to see you and to deliver bikes for you to play with." The child turned to him and simply said: "Todah." Suddenly the pain I felt in my saddle disapated. When our group from Adath Israel decided to donate 6 bikes that morning, I was feeling pretty good. In fact I was feeling great...we had performed multiple mitzvot that morning: we strengthened those in need of strengthening and we gave some children the opportunity for fun and hope. Mitzvah gorreret Mitzvah -- One mitzvah leads to another. All this in less than 1/2 hour.


As the ride continued, I was reminded of my body at frequent intervals. It was hard, but thank God for the other riders; people from around the world who have gathered together to ride for the environment, Israel and peace. In the few days of shared experience, the 75 of us have become fast friends. Never have I been on a Jewish program of this nature and not have one person complain!? Hahephekh...the opposite...I have rarely met a more ecletic and caring group of people who constantly go out of their way to help and support each other accomplish what for many of us is the biggest physical challenge we have ever attempted.


There were times on Friday (the last 7 miles or so) when I thought I'd have to get off the bike and bus it into Mitzpe Ramon. I was quickly running out of steam when Rachel from Boston rode up beside me (also exhausted) and then suddenly the city came into view from the distance. We literally encouraged each other every pedal of the way to finish. At times we were travelling a whopping 6.5 miles an hour, but we kept going. And we made it. I don't think I would have made it alone.


The sense of community was especially felt over Shabbat. As Miles posted, it was hamesh, it was lively, and it was filled with ruah (spirit). Jews from the world over (and a couple of Muslims and Christians too) gathered together to welcome Shabbat with song and prayer and a delicious meal. It was very meaningful. I was priviledged to lead Kabbalat Shabbat, Shaharit, Minhah and a text study.

Shabbat afternoon was spent taking a walk to the Makhtesh. What is a makhtesh you ask? Excellent question. There are three in the world and they all are found in Israel. Imagine a sombrero in which the center part of the hat suddenly imploded. That’s a mahktesh. It’s a geological wonder in which layer upon layer of the earths fauna and fossil record have been maintained. Makhtesh Ramon is the largest of the three. Mitzpe Ramon is located on its highest crustal wall. On Shabbat afternoon I took some of the members of our group to the Makhtesh for a look-see. It was beautiful, majestic and magnificent. While overlooking it we were awed by the nature of the world and our miniscule place in it. We also reflected a bit on this experience and how it has challenged us in so many different ways. From the Makhtesh we continued toward the visitor’s center where I led our group to a cave overlooking the Makhtesh form a different angle. I have been to this cave on numerous occasions, but have never entered for fear of heights. There is one step at the very beginning that has always spooked me a bit. Not this time, however, after all I did ride my bike from Jerusalem to Mitzpe Ramon…what’s a little step. So with a great leap of faith I entered the cave with the others who were daring and we enjoyed a beautiful overlook of the Makhtesh. Jeff Seligsohn rightfully asked for a moment of silence to really soak in the experience. It was very tense.

Then when we concluded we recited the berakhah for seeing wondrous things in nature: Barukh ata Hashem, Elokeynu Melekh HaOlam, Oseh Maaseh Bereisheet – We acknowledge you o Lord, Master of the Universe who creates such wondrous things.

Amen.

It was a beautiful Shabbat. One sorely needed!

Im...If...

Shabbat...a day of rest...took on new meaning for me as well as the others of our ride...this day of rest could not have come at a better time. After three days in the saddle and 180 miles (give or take later) it was welcomed relief.

Shabbat on Friday night began with a beautiful service. The tradition of welcoming we follow at Adaht Israel was very appreciated and noticed as we welcomed the Kehillah of bike riders to the service. There, at the service, multi generations of bike riders from all types of Judaism, sat and prayed together. Following this service, we returned to the hotel for a wonderful dinner of fellowship. People sat with other people they had met on the ride. This community continued after the dinner as we sat around into the evening discussing the ride, home life, etc.

Shabbat morning service was perhaps the most meaningful part of the trip, when Paula, a 20 year old became a Bat Mitzvah. This was a surprise to most, including her dad. It makes one stop and really gain an appreciation of what this ride has meant when a young woman who has come to Israel for the first time in her life, also becomes a Bat Mitzvah. Tear were flowing from my eyes as I was so proud of her and the moment. Following her Aliyah, we tossed candy and sang.

Shabbat continued with a study group and lunch. Following these, we heard from the students of the Arvana. They brought their experiences to life in a way that had meaning for all. Jew and Arab and Palestinian living and working together for peace.

Shabbat concluded with Havdallah at a look out area over the Makhtesh. So what is this place? Think of this area as an imploded mountain. We sang, danced (the rumor is true...i did "breakdance"), and said goodbye to Shabbat and back to the bike.

I titled this piece as Im or "If" which was the opening word in this week's Parshah. Prior to Havdallah we shared what this ride has meant. As someone with bad knees, asthmatic, etc...i would have never thought about a ride like this one. But we make decisions and commitments in life. I am here and glad to be. It has taught me something about myself. I hope that I never wonder "if" again, but always grab life and live it to the fullest.

B'shalom,

Miles

Shabbat

I definitely broke my personal record for service attendance in a 24 hour period having gone to a Friday night service, a Saturday morning service (where a suprise bat mitzvah was held), a Torah study session and then Havdallah. The Shabbat event that will stay with me most was the session I attended with the students from the Arava Institute. Students from America, Israel, Jordon and East Jerusalem all attend the Institute. The students all study various aspects of environmental sciences while living together on the same campus. Each of them were articulate and passionate about their personal stories and the struggles that they experience being with one another especially after a terror incident. It was wonderful to watch them interact and to hear about their open dialogue. Hopefully, this will serve as a model for future peace and that the students will be able to share their positive and fulfilling experiences living with one another when they return to their respective homelands.

Mountain Biking

On friday after 14 miles on the road, we got the opportunity to go off road in Ein Akev. It was a totally different experience than the Wissahickon as we were confronted with sand and rocks from a river bed. An ibec was perched on the ridge as we went up and down various hills toward an ice cold spring which was our reward at the end of this journey. After a swim, we hopped back on our mountain bikes for lunch and in order to beat the lunch crowd three of us rode up the switch back to beat the bus up the hill. I regreted that decision later in the afternoon as my legs started to fatigue. We rode with Gil a former officer in the Israeli army who oversaw security at Ben Gurion's burial at Ein Akev and showed us where he placed the sharpshooters on the cliffs for the ceremony. Gil is now a chemistry professor at Hebrew University. Gil then lead us up the hills to Mitze Ramon. For the day, we totalled 10 miles of moutain biking and about 33 miles on the road. I was definitely tired and sore upon our arrival.